Thursday 24 March 2011

Post 33: Alpha Charlie crosses the Equator Northbound




Coming in to land at Principe, just north of the equator

March 24
Port Gentil, Gabon, to Principe, Republic of Sao Tome and Principe
165 nautical miles
Flying time: 1hr 36 minutes

The Equator..well..just
Crossing the line: Alpha Charlie crosses the Equator, heading north, at precisely 15hrs 27mins 26 secs UTC. No weird or humiliating ceremonies for the crew in accordance with ancient naval tradition . I try and take a picture of the GPS at 00 degrees 00 minutes 00 seconds. The aircraf is faster than the camera. ( Left) I give Alpha Charlie a pat. We have come a long way together.  
Fuel finally arrived at Port Gentil at lunchtime. Not a good time to fly in the tropics but the forecast was OK.  We pay our bills at Le Meridien hotel,  rush off to the airport, fill up with the precious liquid, don our life jackets, agree quickly who would do what if we ditch in the Gulf of Guinea  and take off on the 160 nautical mile sea-crossing to Principe. Fortunately the former Portuguese colony of is an hour behind Gabon. We gain an hour's flying time before sunset.
This is the scary Intertropical Convergence Zone, or ITCZ. My mate Laurie Kay ( ex chief flying instructor on 747s for South African Airways ) had given Jo and I a masterclass on the ITCZ before we left Johannesburg. “ Just stay clear of CBs, the big scary cloud which rise tens of  thousands of feet, boiling and churning, at their heart killer downdrafts which can fling you to earth in a moment. If the forecast (assuming you can get one) says there’s a line of them don’t take off. If your path is blocked ahead turn back or divert. “

The ITCZ is the region that circles the Earth, near the equator, where the trade winds of the Northern and Southern Hemispheres come together. On a satellite image the ITCZ   shows up as a deceptively benign thin belt of cloud encircling  middle earth. It works like any thunderstorm. But big time. The intense sun and warm water of the equator heats the air. As the air rises it boils and churns and expands and then cools, releasing moisture in an almost perpetual series of thunderstorms. Some grow into hurricanes. The location of the ITCZ varies over the year. Over land, it moves back and forth across the equator following the sun's zenith.. Over the oceans the seasonal cycle is more subtle.
Runway 18, Principe
Our little Strikefinder weather radar lights up like a Christmas tree when we take off from Port Gentil. But it’s all to the west and some to the east. We cleave a path through it at FL65 or 6,500ft.
We are cleared to land at Principe by Sao Tome approach. The ATC asks every passing aircraft for a phone number. It's a search and rescue thing apparently If you don't arrive according to your flight plan, they ring your mobile.

The controller asks an American pilot in a passing Pilatus PC12 " Do you have a  contact number? " No Sir". Pregnant pause. Click, whirr. " OK.Do you have a PO Box, a Post Box?" The American replies, somewhat humourlessly I thought, " We don't have PO boxes in the States" 


Daybreak at the Bom Bom hotel Principe
Principe's haunting peaks are starkly contrasted against a darkening sky, backlit by the setting sun. We land on runway 18 which rises and dips to be welcomed by schoolchildren at the end of their day. It’s a lovely, unspoilt tropical island.

Kids at Principe
 March 25: Our next stop is Nigeria. We’re hoping to go to Port  Harcourt, refuel and head north Kano to spend the night. The weather looks dodgy. The ITCZ has come to life. Conditions are IFR in Port Harcourt. And it's pouring in Principe. We might be stuck in Paradise for a day or two.



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